Transportation Questions
- Should I use auto and bicycle
rickshaws?
For travelling within a city, the auto rickshaws are a very cheap
way to go, and bicycle rickshaws are even cheaper. One major
drawback for auto rickshaws, however, is the the pollution - these
little two-cycle engines spew enormous amounts of particulate
pollution that often ends up right in your face, in addition to the
toxic emissions of all the other vehicles on the road.
The air quality can be so awful that I would recommend bringing
with you dust mask that are used at construction sites, or a good
bandana to wrap around your face.
- Should I take busses?
Avoid busses if you can, unless you're on a tight budget.
- Should I use the train system?
Absolutely. You should take trains between cities at least a couple
of times during your time in India. The Indian rail system is an
amazing feat of organization, employing something like two million
people, the largest single employer in the world.
Taking the train gives you quality time with the locals like no
other venue. You can make some wonderful connections with the folks,
gain valuable information that you can't get elsewhere, and open the
door for some interesting opportunities and adventures.
- What class should I travel on
in trains?
The most 'luxurious' class is called 'air-con' or 'chair' class,
and this can come in handy during long rides through the hot Indian
climate. Most trains seems circa 1960 with windows that are
yellowed.
But you should try first and or second class at least once to
really get the feel of India. They have fans on the ceiling which
actually work sometimes. But you can go between cars or try to get
near a window if you want to cool yourself down with a blast of hot
Indian air.
On all classes of trains, you can watch the train track go by
through the bottom of the toilet, so watch wear you step if you're
ever walking the line in India!
Note: Keep alert if you are getting off at a particular stop -
sometimes trains can take off quite abruptly. Be prepared for your
stop.
- Is the India Railpass worth it?
Wasn't worth it for me, using trains intermittantly.
- Should I fly directly to India
from America, or should I stop off on the way?
Absolutely you should break up your trip. If you're flying
westward, spend a few days in Hawaii, Tahiti, Hong Kong, Japan,
whatever stopover city you air carrier stop at. If you're flying
eastward, a few days in Europe is worth it.
The culture shock of India can be so intense that being burned out
from 24 hours of flying is a recipe for a very unpleasant start of
your India travels. I didn't stop on my way back from India, and
living in California, that means 24 hours of almost non-stop air
travel. Never will do that again, it was the longest day of my life.
- How should I travel between
cities?
For a few inter-city journeys take the train, just to get the
experience of the Indian countryside, meeting the locals on the
train. I made several good connections on the train. This can,
however, get old very quickly, and if your money to time ratio is in
favor of money, go for flights between cities. I found Indian
Airlines reliable and on schedule, but others have differing
opinions and experience. The pleasure of being in a clean, western
style airport is sometimes alone is worth the trip!
Hotels and Sleeping Arrangements
- How clean are the hotels?
The 5 and 4 star hotels are pretty much like any high quality
western hotel, and many of them are western chains. But then the
quality drops dramatically to 1/2 stars - anything considered 3
stars or less in India is basically a crap shoot. After a while, I
started to rate hotels based on the number of insect and blood
stains on the wall near the bed.
It's good to start your stay in India with a higher class hotel,
just to break yourself in slowly. The four star hotel that I first
stayed in, despite the mints on the pillow, had a slightly run-down
quality that seems to be ubiquitous in India.
- Should I bring sheets or
blankets for sleeping?
Some hotels are so sleazy that the sheets are dirty, or there are
no sheets at all, especially in cheap hotel and dormitory situations
You may want to buy sheets when you're in India, they are very
cheap. Unless you're staying in the higher elevations, blankets are
not needed. Not worth carrying around unless you need them.
Preparation
- How should I plan my itinerary?
Pre-trip itineraries are significantly more costly than itineraries
generated while in India. In every city there are a plethora of
travel agents. Ask around for the best (and most scrupulous) agents.
Best plan, which worked for me: Plan an itinerary for the first few
days in India, including tours and guides. Plan itineraries for the
next three or four days, or when moving from one town or city to the
next. Learn the ropes, get street smart, and do it yourself.
- What kind of luggage should I
bring?
Use a large soft duffle bag or backup.I bought an Eagle Creek "Expidition
trunk with a large volume capacity which had both luggage inline
rollers and backpack capabilities. Check out the "Wheeled
Travel Packs" and Tanker Trunks at http://www.eaglecreek.com/catalog.htm.
You can get soft trunks up to 9000 cubic inch capacity.
- How should I carry my money
around?
In a money belt or in a passport pouch that is carried around the
neck. This way it is always in front of you, in your sight. I
carried all my valuables in this pouch (rupees, dollars, passport,
travelers checks, etc.) under my shirt at all times out and about.
Any travel store has these passport pouches.
- What kind of camera film should
I bring?
I brought mostly ISO 100 35mm film and that was a mistake. India is
so polluted in many areas that daylight is reduced significantly.
There are also many small alleyways, streets and areas which do not
get much sunlight. Consider bringing ISO 200 and ISO 400 film to
handle reduced sun, shadowy and indoor shots.
- What camera(s) should I bring?
To not miss opportunities, a 35 MM SLR camera, and a point and
shoot camera carried in a waist pack for quick access. However, next
time I go, it's going to be a digital camera.
- What are some of the unusual
items to bring along?
Two very important items are candy and pens for child beggars.
Sandwich bags for various reasons, a sleeping bag pouch for dirty
hotels, lots of Pepto-Bismol tablets. Also, see the
Travel Item Checklist
Section.
- Should I use a guide?
Only in the first few weeks, or if you are doing a very special
outing. Once you get a feel for getting around India, you can be
your own guide, setting up an itinerary to your schedule and liking.
At best, a guide may be helpful getting you into places that as a
western tourist you would not normally have access to or even know
about. I know one fellow who actually got into the Golden Temple in
Varanasi, ordinarily strictly banned to non-Hindus, because of his
guide.
Money Exchange and Scams
- How should I handle adult
beggars?
Give only to the most needy: the cripple (which are ubiquitous to
the point of near overwhelm) and to the very old. Even then, in the
big cities, some of the most need beggars are heroin addicts
(particularly Bombay/Mumbai), hooked on 'brown sugar' from the
nearby Golden Triangle of SE Asia.
The lack of a social security or welfare system in India leaves
many extermely vulnerable.
- How should I handle child
beggars?
Candy for children in the cities. Children are often sent out to
rake in money for their elders and are part of a larger beggar
industry. Giving children candy breaks their whole act, they can't
resist getting candy, and often forget about their duty to bring
back the rupees. Children in villages invariably ask for pens, I
guess there's no shortage of paper, but shortages of ink in Indian
villages. Buy a package of Bic pen before you set off to India.
- What are the classic beggar
scams?
See the section on Safety/Security/Scams
in India Travel Tips
- What are the expectations
regarding tipping?
20 rupees is good for carrying bags, 50 in an upsale place. Lonely
Planet a section on tipping. Many restaurant bills contain a service
charge, which includes the tip, so check it out. Ordinarily, it's
10% for restaurants.
- How do I deal with taxi
drivers' fees?
Prenegotiate. Whatever they quote initially is too high. Most won't
use a meter, and in many caes the meter is broken.
Just walk away if the price is too high -- it'll come down real
fast. "friend, I don't want to buy your taxi, I just want to
ride in it" is a good line. Maybe Rs 10 per kilomter... 15 in
the city? Check Lonely Planet for more info.
- Where should I buy souvenirs?
Ask around, avoid taxi driver situations, they're paid commission
to bring you to places. Purchase souvenirs, especially heavier ones,
in the last few days of your trip and purchase an extra suitcase.
Stay away from the most common areas, the tourists traps. Ask the
locals, they always know the best places. Almost always avoid
someone who has come up to you on the street. They are getting a
commission by some souvenir shop.
One excellent way is to find a taxi driver that can be an informal
guide. They can help you with shopping (while keeping the meter
running, which is very cheap, relatively speaking).
- Should I bargain with vendors?
Always! Be willing to walk away. In fact, try walking away, and
notice how quickly the price comes down! Be firm, even though things
seem incredibly cheap, you have to get into the mode of the local
economy. Paying too much for items simply will make it more
difficult for visitors who come after you.
- How to best avoid being
scammed?
See the section on Safety/Security/Scams
in India Travel Tips
If some tout asks you where are you from (and you will hear this
question to teh point of nausea), tell them that you're from
Australia..apparently the Aussies are considered less wealthy than
their mates from the States, and Indians often can't tell the
difference in accents.
Money Issues
- How much money should I bring
along?
Depends on your itinerary is - the quality of hotel you are willing
to use, the kinds of restuarants you frequent, the modes of
transportation, the amount of moving around you do. As time goes on,
this becomes less and less of an issue, as you can use the ever
increasing number of ATMs in larger cities.
- In what form should I carry my
money around?
Mostly cash, just a few travelers checks for emergency backup. For
a two month trip, I kept around 500 USD with me, about 200 USD in
travellers checks, and had part of that always on my person and the
other part locked in my suitcase, including several hundred dollars
worth of rupees, wishing to avoid bank lines as much as possible.
- What forms of rupees should I
exchange money for?
You will receive 'blocks' of money in various forms, and you must
ask for 1, 5 and 10 rupee notes from the teller. The reason for this
is to always have at hand small amounts of money for beggars.
If you start handing out 100 rupee notes to beggars you will become
the most popular person in town. They do talk to each other! Indian
money is often extremely filthy, BTW, wash your hands after touching
it.
- When should I exchange my
money?
Definitely take the time to exchange the money at the airport when
you arrive. It will accustom you to how things work in India,
standing in long lines, etc., and prepare you for stepping out into
the real world of India, cash in hand.
- Are ATMs available in India?
Yes, found and used them in Delhi, Bombay and Madras. Also found
several American bank branches in these cities.
- What is an encashment
certificate?
It's a certificate that allows you to exchange your rupees back
into local currency. When you leave India, you can change money back
at the airport. They will ask to see your encashment certificates,
so save them. If you don't have a certificate, you cannot change
money back.
Health and Safety Issues
- What do I do if I get sick?
Hotels will have doctors on call. The quality of heathcare is for
the most part substandard relative to western care, and it is not
unusual to be sent to SE Asia, such as Malaysia, for more serious
problems. There are several hospital chains that are apparently
reputable in Delhi and other large cities.
Note that there is very little regulation regarding prescription
drugs in India, so if you want to self-prescribe, you can get just
about anything over the counter in India.
Checkout the IAMAT
Organization Web site for travelling medicinal issues.
- What kind of shots should I get
before going?
I received four shots, all at once, for the following diseases:
- Tetanus
- Polio (the childhood vaccine we all took weakens after a
while)
- Meningitus
- Hepatitus A
I also took an oral vaccine for Typhoid
It is a good idea to check various websites to determine if there
are any outbreaks of diseases in the areas to which you plan to
travel
- What about malaria?
I decided not to take malaria prevention medicine. The US
medication has too many side-effects. If you really want to guard
against malaria, wait till you get to India and get the European
medicine. I took my chances and it was fine.
- What are some strategies to
avoid getting sick from restaurant food?
See The Health
Section in India
Travel Tips
- What about 'charas', 'ganja',
hashish?
It's readily available, but don't buy it from a stranger on the
street, it may be a scam to get you busted. I found that it was
plentiful and cheap, particularly in Northern India, even though I
wasn't looking for it. It can be purchased in stores in some
locations. But be warned it is illegal, and possession can get you
time, and you don't want to spend time in an Indian jail.
- Should I drink the water?
No! The quality of water is substandard, and though you will
ultimately drink the local water, in the form of tea or in your
food, it's best to avoid as much as possible unless you've been
there for several months. Even then it's dicey, IMO. With India's
ever burgeoning population, water will be an ever increasing health
issue as time goes on.
- Is the bottled water safe?
Yes. Bisleri, and 'Yes', are two of the most comon brands of
bottled water on the street. I had no problem with any of the brands
I purchassed. But check the bottom of the bottle for holes and
broken seals around the cap. They've been known to refill bottles
with tap water.
I alway kept two bottles with me at all times, one open and its
replacement. You will invariably find yourself in situation where
you cannot purcahse water for some time, and discipline purchasing
of bottled water is a health pre-requisite.
- What other safety precautions
should I take?
Use common sense. Despite it's overwhelming poverty, India is a
relatively safe country. I never felt that I was in danger, but
worked not to flout my western wealth. See the Safety/Security/Scams
section in India Travel
Tips
Clothing
- How much clothing should I
bring along?
About one weeks worth. You can get your clothing laundered for a
relatively inexpensive price, particularly in Bombay, and there is
plenty of opportunity to purchase native dress - I ended up
purchasing several 'kurta's, which is a traditional shirt in India
that is popular in the west, popularized in the '60s.
- Should I wear shorts?
I ended up not wearing shorts, wanting to blend in with the locals
as much as possible. Despite the hot weather, very few Indians wear
shorts. Besides your pasty white legs will stand out in a crowd and
give new meaning to the term 'ugly American'.
- How covered up should I be, so
as to not offend the locals?
Bigger issue for women. The best policy to to try to blend in with
the locals, which is not hard to do. Baring skin is mostly an issue
in the the denser Muslim areas. See Lonely Planet for women.
- How should I dress on the
street?
Dress like the natives: short sleeves, long pants, and don't look
like you are carrying around lots of money, dress as 'poorly' as you
can. This is not so much for safety reasons as to limit you being a
target for touts, scams and everyone else trying to sell you
something. You're going to get that anyway, and it is definitely
worth your while to minimize this awful inconvenience of travel
through India.
Timing
- How should I prepare for
weather?
The driest weather seems to be October through January, and if you
go through the non-monsoon season, which is the dead of 'winter'
(India is slightly in the northern hemisphere), be prepared for
weather that is much hotter and humid than you could ever imagine.
Even if it rains, it doesn't cool down that much. Unless you're
trekking in the Himalayas, a sweatshirt or windbreaker is about all
you'll need for warmth. You will be uncomfortably hot much more than
uncomfortably cold most of the time, except for the higher
elevations. The exception is Bangalore, which has a mysterious and
wonderfully mild climate, even though it is located in south central
India. I found Bombay and Kochin to be akin to steam baths, even
though it was November/December. Varanasi, in the Ganges river
valley of Uttar Pradesh, can reach temperatures of 117 degrees
Fahrenheit.
For the entire time of my travel, of two months or so, I could not
detect the slightest hint of wind it was totally still, even in the
Himalayas. I suspect that it was a function of the time of year, or
an unusual weather pattern.
- Generally speaking, when is the
best time to travel in India?
October through December. Time the travel from North India to South
India accordingly.
Miscellaneous
- How do I deal with the
language?
See the Language
section in India Travel
Tips
- What travel books should I
bring along?
I brought both Lonely Planet and The Rough Guide. I
found that they did not overlap that much, and by having both, I had
a wider range of information than if I carried only one book. The
Rough Guide has more low-end hotels and eateries listed, and
surprisingly they often list different sets of attractions for the
listed cities. If you can handle the weight of these two fat books,
it's worth it.
- What is the Internet scene in
India?
(This is changing rapidly, and my information based on my late 1998
trip may be out of date). My experience is that all major city have
numerous Internet cafes for email and general surfing. Rates may
vary widely so check around, ask your fellow western traveler.
However, some cities have very little Internet connectivity;
Varanasi comes to mind. As of 1998 there was only one national
internet service provider, VNSL and its reputation left something to
be desired. Internet connections in Varanasi, and in villages, are
made via long distance phone calls, and so batch downloading and
uploaded techniques are used to minimize connect-time and cost.
Most internet cafes aren't really cafes, just computer farms,
in sometimes very out of the way places. Cheap rent, I guess.
|
